Tips For Your NZ Road Trip Holiday: the South Island

October 24th, 2024

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Having just last week raved about some great road trips to take in the North Island of New Zealand, we can’t forget the South Island, can we?  For many, the South Island has some of the best spectacular scenery that this small country has to offer in a country that is situated in the Pacific Ocean, a little more isolated than you might first have thought (yes, even more than Australia – Australia doesn’t often get left off world maps).  The South Island is situated at just about the bottom of the world and is full of mountains, rivers, and lakes, and home to some of the best sea creatures, sea views, and birdlife you’ll see anywhere on the planet – well, that’s my opinion. 

One of the best ways to see the South Island, if you want to do a one-off hit, is to fly directly into Queenstown.  Despite barely qualifying as a city, Queenstown is an international airport and so takes a lot of direct flights to and from the main Australian centres.  If you want to add a South Island trip to a North Island trip as well, then the Cook Strait is an easy sea connection between the two main islands.  Ferries run the route between Picton and Wellington daily, so these are an easy way to bridge the gap between the islands (book first).  Simply drive onto the boat at one end and drive off at the other. 

The South Island was known as “Te Waipounamu” by the early Māori, which means “the waters of greenstone”.  That’s a more creative name than the boring colonial one, and it gives a nod to just how much beautiful greenstone can be found around this expansive land, full of remote and wild areas.  Greenstone is mainly found throughout Westland’s alluvial glacial moraines.  The main historical Māori gathering places for greenstone are between Greymouth and Hokitika.  Now that’s super convenient because you can start your South Island adventure from either Queenstown or Picton, and drive the length of the West Coast of the South Island, taking your time to thoroughly immerse yourself in the fun laid-back town of Hokitika, capture the glorious Alpine views with Mt Cook and Mt Tasman topping the height charts, and settle yourself down on the beach at Greymouth eating fish and chips as you watch the sun sink down below the horizon, westward across the sea.  Don’t forget to have a look at Punakaiki!

Townships on the West Coast are rather spread out, so if you notice your fuel tank or EV battery charge getting on the low side, top up when you can to avoid getting caught out. 

If there is any case for choosing an SUV-style vehicle to rent in New Zealand, then the South Island probably merits renting a vehicle like a Mitsubishi Outlander or Toyota RAV4 more than the North Island does.  This is because the South Island has some stunning roads that you can explore – remote roads like the ski pass roads to Otago Central’s best ski fields, and other roads with gravel surfaces, like the corrugated route up the Matukituki Valley near Wanaka, where you can be astounded by Mt Aspiring’s immense size and steep slopes.  Spend a night or two in Mount Cook National Park and be wowed by the McKenzie Basin’s star-gazing potential and beautiful blue glacial lakes.  Soak in a hot tub at Omarama and go mountain biking or ice skating at Tekapo.  There is so much to do! 

New Zealand might be a lot smaller than Australia, but the mountains certainly aren’t.  So be prepared for some hill driving, especially if you plan on crossing some of the passes on your road trip.  The Lewis Pass is the gentlest of the three.

Do take a trip south of Queenstown.  Te Anau is a great place to encounter some of New Zealand’s rarest native birds.  You can also cruise across Lake Te Anau and go into the mysterious glow worm caves.  This is a real treat!  Of course, if you get this far, take the time to head over to Milford Sound and view the iconic Mitre Peak.  A boat will take you out into Milford Sound, where you’ll be stunned by the sheer steepness and bigness of the mountains that rise up out of the sea.  There are waterfalls cascading down into the sea all year round. 

The drive from Te Anau to Milford is longer than you may expect, and you’ll encounter a lot of tour buses.  Also check the road conditions before you set out, as the road can be closed because of the avalanche risk, and the Powers That Be can be jumpy in their efforts to avoid nasty accidents.

Now for another amazing trip that is less talked about!  Southland is home to some of the best views of the Takitimu Mountains, green pastures, rolling hills, sea, and lakes.  Drive from Te Anau to Manapouri, where you’ll find pretty lake views and stunning lakeside walks.  From Manapouri, take the road to Tuatapere, which will take you around the southern end of the Takitimu range.  On route you’ll enjoy splendid vistas and views as the road climbs up over Blackmount.  Google Maps and the like may send you over a gravel road; if this happens to you and you’ve never driven gravel before, the big thing is to keep your speeds down lower than you think around corners and stay in the ruts.

Keep an eye open for agricultural machinery and trucks in this part of the country, as you’re likely to encounter tractors using the roads a lot, and just about every small dot on the map town has a trucking company and a contractor or three, and they all use the main roads, as do the dairy tankers.  At certain times of the year, farmers move cows along public roads.

Do take the coastal route from Tuatapere to Invercargill because the sea views are breathtaking.  You can stop at McCracken’s Rest and be wowed – and the bent trees give you an indication of how strong the winds are (take note if you plan on towing a caravan or a campervan with high sides).  Take a walk along Riverton’s peaceful beachfront and dip your toes in the cool sea water (but it’s not icy – it was warmer than I expected).  Swim if its in the middle of summer (February)!  Find out more about Burt Munroe’s stamping ground at the motorcycle museum in Invercargill and take a walk around Queens Park – Invercargill’s gorgeous botanical gardens.  Invercargill is a popular spot for petrolheads, with a motorbike museum and a truck museum on offer, and lots of classic car lovers who are happy to talk about their machines.

Lastly, I wanted to share what is a treasure trove of scenic views, surfing, and waterfall walks you’ll enjoy as you take the coastal route around the Catlins, a route that takes you from Invercargill to Fortrose, then up through Owaka to Balclutha.  Say hi to some sea lions at Pounawea, and make sure you do the walk out to the Nugget Point Lighthouse (amazing!). 

Welcome to the South Island of New Zealand – and that’s just the beginning!